A Clear Autumn Day Is Like A Bird In The Hand

I had wanted it to rain. I needed a rainy Saturday for all the cooking I had promised myself I would learn to do. I had lentils demanding stock, apples crying out to be surrounded by light, flaky crust, plums that threatened to mutiny into mold in the fridge.

But I had no choice when I woke up and could see the mountains from the living room. If I could see the mountains from Seattle, that meant the view from up there would be long, wide and clear. And even though it was late in the morning, I knew where I had to go.

The hike to Commonwealth Basin and Red Pass in Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest can be done even if you sleep in. It's relatively close to town, takes only about five hours and is great for a bright, sunny day when those views of Rainier really do come true. Plus, there is a big picture of a blueberry bush next to the description in my guidebook. More fruit for the fridge!

The trail offers a variety of terrain: deep woodlands, basin bottom, steep trail and big old views. However, if you've never been to Kendall Katwalk, the other option at the fork in the trail where the basin route heads left, I'd have to say the scenery there is more spectacular. But the Katwalk takes two hours longer and is likely to get snow earlier in the year - mid-October, while Commonwealth Basin stays snow-free longer. When snow does come, Commonwealth is a popular snowshoeing destination for those who are well-versed in avalanche avoidance.

For the first 45 minutes of the hike, I could hear the surf and whine of the interstate, which put a damper on my Wilderness Experience. Right as the noise was receding, however, the scenery improved dramatically, with views across a rockslide to Red Mountain and bright white ridges to its left. Who ever said there's no such thing as fall foliage in Washington? The red of the mountain berry bushes and the golden cream of the bracken leaves can give New England a run for its money, especially if you're willing to hike high.

The trail climbs steeply out of the forested basin, with a total elevation gain of 2,700 feet. For a reward for the formidable Stairmastering, Rainier appears in the background. After the trail flattens out a bit, there's Red Pond, or what's left of it, drying up to the left at the bottom of an impressive rockslide, and the trail to Red Pass to the right. After lunch accompanied by one of the greatest spa-like treatments in the world - a rest on a hot, flat rock high in the mountains - the dog and I headed uphill. Steam was still rising from the trail at 3:45 p.m. No blueberries for miles!

This is a good trail for discovering the benefits of keeping a dog on the leash. Addie, my black Labrador retriever, was kind enough to provide a canine ski-tow on the way up, and we saw a lot more wildlife with her reined in. Plus there's a $100 fine for having a dog running free.

At the pass there's a sign that announces, "Trail Abandoned Beyond This Point." Before that, there are some lovely places to sit along the trail to enjoy the view of Mount Thompson and the valley below.

The highlight of the day - aside from the monstrous bear's-head coral fungus I found and brought back to my neighbors the mushroom experts (who declared it highly edible and made several meals out of it) - was a rest stop toward the end. This is where highway noise kicks in again, and where I needed a granola bar.

I had barely unwrapped it when the Clark's nutcrackers appeared in the trees nearby. I threw a few crumbs, they ate, and then came closer. I held up a crumb and a bird swooped down to get it, and before long I had two eating from my hands. They are graceful birds, their wings fanning out so that each feather is visible, even when they hop from branch to hand. Up close, they are especially endearing. Tina Kelley's column runs Fridays in Northwest Weekend. She can be reached at Northwest Weekend, The Seattle Times, P.O. Box 70, Seattle, WA 98111 or via e-mail at weekend@seatimes.com. ------------------------------- If You Go

Take Interstate 90 east to Exit 52, Snoqualmie Pass. At the bottom of the ramp turn left under the highway, and follow Alpental Road to the Pacific Crest Trail parking lot on the right. As you near the lot, turn right, toward the lot for hikers instead of horses. Take the Pacific Crest Trail for 2.75 miles, then take the left fork toward Commonwealth Basin. For more information, call the North Bend Ranger District at 425-888-1421. Don't forget a Trail Park pass!