Spring fling: Wildflowers paint the hills of Eastern Washington

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My thesaurus offers "wasteland" as a suitable replacement for "desert." Perhaps that's why so many folks accept the notion that Washington's deserts are nothing but endless tracts of sand and sagebrush.

With all due respect to Roget, nothing could be further from the truth.

Desert country covers much of Eastern Washington, and within these vast tracts of dry land the abundance of vibrant wildflowers in spring and early summer astounds new visitors.

Each spring, the desert hills near Ellensburg, Yakima and the Tri-Cities burst with colorful blossoms. During one short hike last spring, I counted more than two-dozen species of wildflowers in glorious bloom.

(I also saw mule deer, bighorn sheep, ospreys, bald eagles, red-tailed hawks, an array of songbirds and signs of several small mammals, including a badger's burrow.)

After our sunny winter with little snow, nature is on a fast track, and it's not too soon to start planning a trip over the mountains in search of blooms.

The desert can be seen from rural highways such as the scenic Yakima Canyon Road, between Ellensburg and Yakima, but the bounty of the desert is best experienced by foot.

Trails meander into a few of the desert areas, but hikers often find themselves merely wandering through the acres of grassy and sage-covered country, exploring ravines, valleys and hills as they choose. Just step carefully so the next visitor can enjoy the blossoms, too.

Here are three top areas for seeing wildflowers:

Yakima Rim

The eastern edge of the L.T. Murray Wildlife Area south of Ellensburg offers some of the best desert hiking in the state. It holds an amazing array of wildflowers, filling spring days with fragrant perfume and washing the dry brown hills with vibrant colors.

The Yakima Rim Trail rolls across the eastern fringe of the wildlife refuge, closely following the lip of the steep wall of the Yakima River Canyon. The trail starts near Selah and heads north. I prefer to skip the trail and hike cross-country from the parking area near the drift fence at the boundary of the refuge (the tall fence is designed to keep wandering elk inside the refuge and away from the tasty morsels in nearby orchards). Simply head uphill through the broad ravines or along the spine of one of the small ridges.

Either option leads to the rim of the Yakima Canyon, high above Roza Dam. Yet each route offers different viewing pleasures.

Sticking to the bottoms of the ravine, you'll find huge clumps of balsamroot, with its broad yellow flowers. In between are patches of purple and yellow lupine, and the occasional sunflower.

Head up the slopes to the sun-scorched ridge top and you'll find more ground-hugging flowers, such as the soft white-pink flower of the bitterroot.

As the flowers color the landscape, they also perfume the air. Sage provides a constant, steady background on the wind, but as the sun heats the new plant growth, an intoxicating blend of scents emerges. The air becomes a sort of olfactory stew as the ever-present sage mingles with pungent odors wafting from the leaves of wild parsley and onion. Through it all swirls the sweet aroma of new grasses and blooming flowers.

Umtanum Canyon

Another outstanding hike in the L.T. Murray area follows the bottom of deep Umtanum Canyon. After crossing a bouncing suspension bridge over the rolling waters of the Yakima River, you'll leave the Yakima Canyon for the narrow side canyon slicing west into the heart of the wildlife refuge.

Bighorn sheep live here, as do deer, elk, badger, bobcats and coyotes. The coyotes enjoy this canyon largely because of the resident rabbit population. And the rabbits are here because of the lush vegetation.

Flowers of every color grace the banks of the heavily dammed (by beavers) Umtanum Creek. A variety of grass and broadleaf ground cover also fills the valley, providing a salad smorgasbord for the cottontails, which burrow under the big sagebrush bushes.

Juniper Dunes Wilderness

Further east, Juniper Dunes Wilderness near Pasco provides the most complete desert ecosystem in the state. This small wilderness preserve, managed by the Bureau of Land Management, contains the last vestige of northern desert juniper forests in the state.

Also here is a strong population of whitetail deer and some truly mammoth specimens of mule deer. I've seen a couple of mule deer bucks that looked almost like small elk.

Some sections of the dunes sport fields of grasses and vibrant flowers, including the delicate grass-widow flower, parsnip and bitterroot.

Scattered among the clumps of sage are yarrow, buckwheat and - here and there - a cluster of tiny cactus. For all the flowers, though, the winds here are heavily perfumed not by flower blossoms, but with the tang of gin. The primary ingredient in that clear spirit - juniper berries - is abundant on the ancient trees that give the wilderness its name. These blue-green trees rival the oldest old-growth forests of Western Washington in age, yet they seldom grow more than 30 or 40 feet tall. Few trunks are much more than a foot in diameter.

No trails cross the wilderness, but hikers may wander to their hearts' content on the 7,000-acre preserve. Backpackers find the nights here remarkable, as the sun-heated sand makes for a fine bed on a cool desert night. Just be prepared to carry every drop of water you'll need, as there is none available anywhere in the wilderness.

Expect to be lulled to sleep by the singing of resident coyotes. And plan on a feast of color for your eyes and a bouquet of sweet aromas for your nose.

IF YOU GO

To reach the Yakima Rim Trail in the L.T. Murray Wildlife Area, drive east on Interstate 90 to Ellensburg. Take Exit 109 and drive south along Highway 821 (Canyon Road) through the Yakima River Canyon to a junction with Highway 823 and Interstate 82. Turn right onto Highway 823 toward Selah. In just less than two miles, you'll encounter a T-intersection. Turn right onto the North Wenas Road. Continue 2.6 miles to a small fire station at a fork in the road. Veer right onto Gibson Road and proceed about a quarter-mile. Turn right onto Buffalo Road and continue about a mile to a parking area on your left bounded by a high drift fence. You can park here or drive through the gate (and close it) and proceed up a dirt track another mile to the trailhead.

To reach Umtanum Canyon Trail, also in the L.T. Murray area, drive east on Interstate 90 to Ellensburg. Take Exit 109 and drive south along Highway 821 (Canyon Road) about 15 miles to Umtanum Creek Recreation Area on the right. A long steel-cable suspension bridge spans the river to access the Umtanum Canyon Trail.

For more information, contact Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, 509-575-2740.

To reach Juniper Dunes Wilderness, drive east from Pasco on Highway 12 to the junction with the Pasco-Kahlotus Highway. Turn left (north) onto the Pasco-Kahlotus Highway and drive 5.6 miles to Peterson Road. The junction is at a small airstrip and grain silo. Turn left onto an unnamed gravel road and continue four miles northeast. The road turns to rough dirt as it leaves farmlands and enters Bureau of Land Management property. At the four-mile point, follow signs to the right. A large parking area is 100 yards down this road. With a low-clearance vehicle or if conditions are very wet, park here and walk 3.5 miles on the rough road to the wilderness boundary. In a high-clearance vehicle, drive along the rough, rutted sand road to the wilderness boundary, marked by a barbed-wire fence and gate. Park near the gate.

For more information, contact Bureau of Land Management, Spokane District, E. 4217 Main Ave., Spokane, WA 99202; 509-536-1200.

Dan A. Nelson is publications editor for Washington Trails Association.