Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - Page updated at 12:00 AM
Taste of the Town / Nancy Leson
Sushi lovers share their favorite places to get a raw deal
And I thought I loved sushi! Sushi afishionados responded with undisguised passion to last week's Taste of the Town — "Sushi 101" — a beginners guide to the joys of the sushi bar that obviously struck a chord with my fellow raw-fish fanatics. They wrote, they called, and after taking note of my short list of sushi-bar favorites, insisted upon inviting me to belly up to theirs. Here's what some of them had to say.
Carolyn Silas: After reading your article I had a craving for sushi, and it was only 4:30 a.m.! I've been to all your favorites except Toyoda Sushi, but I must tell you of a little hideaway you cannot go through life without: the Bainbridge Island Sushi House (108 W. Winslow Way, Bainbridge Island; 206-780-9424). It's Osaka-style and, truthfully, the best sushi I've ever had in my life.
Harvey Thomas: You missed the best sushi restaurant in all of Washington: Rikki Rikki in Kirkland's Parkplace shopping center (444 Parkplace Center; 425-828-0707) My wife and I have tried many places locally but we're best served by Ramon at Rikki Rikki. If you're a true aficionado, you won't be disappointed.
Rob Leland: You must, with serious emphasis, try Koharu in Federal Way (31940 Pacific Hwy. S.W.; 253-839-0052). The present owners bought it in late 1997 and have made it a destination for discriminating sushi lovers who bank on word-of-mouth over popular fame. Koharu survives on its clientele, not on reviews or ratings. I have been fortunate to eat at a great many sushi restaurants all over Japan, north to south, and I have found Koharu to be the one true representation of the cuisine. The itamai-san (sushi chef) is sweet, good natured and gracious, and serves tremendously perfect cuts of fresh fish. I heartily recommend them. (Note: As does reader Vicki Wiprud, who wrote to say: If you are ever in the South End, try Koharu in Federal Way. It is easily as good as, if not better, than Shiro's.)
Margaret Martinez: I grew up in the desert of Arizona, in Tucson, and in my first 21 years had not even heard of sushi. When I moved to Seattle in 1991 and was prompted by our new social group to go out for sushi, I — like your husband — was a bit hesitant. But I gave it my best and learned two things on my first night: Take it easy on the green stuff and stay with the rolls to begin with. The intent of my e-mail is to share with you my favorite sushi bar, Nara Japanese Restaurant, in Redmond (16564 Cleveland St.; 425-885-0703). Paul Chen, the head sushi chef and owner, is surely one of the best in the area. As a West Seattle resident who works downtown, I know it's a long haul to Redmond for any reason. But I make the trip once a month just to sit at his counter and have him spoil me with toro and with his shrimp tempura eel roll (wonderful for sushi-virgins as well as longtime sushi eaters). Oh, yes. He also makes a wicked little "uni shooter."
Bob Margulis: I remember how intimidating it was 20 years ago when I first walked into (the original) Nikko on Rainier and sat down, on a cold winter midweek night, in front of Shiro (Kashiba, of Shiro's Sushi), who began my sushi education. Like yours, it's never stopped. For many years in the mid- to late-'80s, before the sushi boom, my favorite sushi bar was the late Takara on the Pike Place Market Hillclimb. I made many friends there and had too many good meals to count, thanks to sushi chefs Kuma-san and Sato-san. One of my reasons for writing is that Kuma, who along with Shiro was one of the city's top sushi chefs, has undergone a journey these past dozen years. After stints here and there, always with the hope of another sushi shop of his own, he started a new one about a year ago in Wallingford, Sushi Kuma (1712 N. 45th St., Seattle; 206-547-9611). There's some well-established competition, but he's as good as the best of the Seattle chefs and I'd love to see him succeed! (Note: I've heard lots of good word about Sushi Kuma in the past year, Bob. Now I really can't wait to try it.)
Kent Beech: As a sushi lover, I enjoyed your article and thought I'd suggest a sushi place I recently discovered and love. It's called Cafe Taka, in Lynnwood (20101 44th Ave. W.; 425-776-5322). The owner and sushi-master, Taka, is always behind the bar. I knew he was good immediately when I asked if the kani (crab) was real or the imitation stuff. He replied he'd never use anything but real crab. (Note: Thanks, Kent. I tend to frequent nearby Matsu Sushi, 19505 44th Ave. W., Lynnwood; 425-771-3363, but will certainly give Cafe Taka a shot.)
Molly Wren: You should know about a sushi chef we've been going to for seven years. I've eaten at three of your five favorites and guarantee that his place is above and beyond even your favorite sushi bars. I'm talking about Takasushi (18904 Highway 99, Lynnwood; 425-778-1689) which used to be near 205th and Aurora, in Shoreline, and recently reopened in a tiny strip mall north of there, near Petsmart in Lynnwood. The owner has a small, devoted, local clientele. I've converted many people who swear they've found "the best place in Seattle" after I've taken them to Taka's. (Note: Thanks for the recommendation, Molly. Fellow reader and sushi eater Jim Gormley, a longtime resident of Japan, concurs, adding that though Takasushi's menu is not extensive, the prices are reasonable and the quality is great — much better than anything he's enjoyed in the area yet. Actually, I used to stop by the old location once in a while and wondered what had happened to Taka, whose former digs are now a drive-thru Starbucks! )
Richard Brody: Great column. I was anticipating reading about sushi with the same feelings I get before I go to eat it. You didn't disappoint, though my wife, Marilyn, felt like we Eastsiders got the short end of the stick. We go to three places pretty frequently. They are Sushiman in Issaquah (670 Gilman Blvd.; 425-391-4295), Tokyo Restaurant at Factoria (3500 Factoria Blvd. S.E., Bellevue; 425-641-5691) and Sushi In Joy in Bellevue (2618 Bellevue Way N.E.; 425-576-1742). Sushiman is neat, and the chefs are quite charismatic. The owner is a fellow named Bobby Suetsugu who at one time was a sumo wrestler. There are always two televisions going: Channel one is on reruns of sumo matches; channel two is on the Mariners when they are playing. Sushiman uses a great variety of the freshest ingredients for their sushi. It's worth going to for the ambience — and Bob, who is quite a character. The other places aren't quite the same, ambiance-wise; they're more simple and businesslike. Both are extremely busy. The one thing I've found about sushi is that it helps to go with an experienced hand. Then there can be a passing of the expertise, and with this "networking" we could have a whole bunch of new sushi aficionados.
Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or nleson@seattletimes.com. More columns at www.seattletimes.com/columnists.
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