Holiday Cuisine 2004: Let's talk turkey

The turkey is the symbol of the Thanksgiving feast, and the centerpiece of the table. Its presence can soften even the most jaded holiday heart.

But it's also likely most families have a turkey disaster story that's revisited each year — the turkey that was dropped on the floor while transferring from oven to platter or the discovery late in the day that the oven had never been turned on. And who can forget the year the power went out and turkeys had to be tossed out all over the region.

Although we aren't able to anticipate every pitfall, we can arm ourselves with information that may ease the way. For instance, we have more choices in the kinds of turkey available and the methods of cooking. Our goal is to make your decisions easier.

We begin with a few things to consider. For lots of leftovers, allow about 1 to 1½ pounds raw turkey weight for each serving. And be sure that the size of the turkey you purchase will fit into your pan and oven.

Generally, grocers order fewer fresh turkeys than frozen. If you plan on serving a fresh bird, call your grocer two weeks ahead to place your order.

Types of turkeys

Standard: These are usually reasonably priced and sold either fresh or frozen. Brining or injecting with basting liquid will improve their flavor, as will a spice rub or flavored butter spread under the skin.

Natural

without additives: These turkeys have no coloring or artificial flavorings added to the meat, and the label must state that. They tend to be drier, which can be compensated for by brining.

Self-basting: Available both fresh or frozen, these turkeys have been injected with a flavored liquid. They tend to be salty and should not be brined.

Kosher: Salt is used in the koshering process, so these turkeys also should not be brined. Kosher poultry tends to be more expensive.

Preparing the turkey

Although a turkey can be safely frozen for a year, the quality will begin to diminish after 6 months. It should be thawed in the refrigerator or in cold water. In the refrigerator it will take about 24 hours of thawing time for every 5 pounds.

If thawing a turkey in cold water, keep the bird in the plastic wrapper it comes in and submerge in cold water and change the cold water every 30 minutes. Allow 30 minutes of defrosting time per pound of turkey. Cook immediately after the turkey is thawed.

Pick up a fresh turkey from the store shortly before it is to be cooked.

Brining: With the exception of a self-basting or kosher turkey, most turkey will benefit from soaking in a salty brine, which improves the meat's flavor and texture. ( Those on sodium restricted diets should consult a dietitian before making a brined turkey.)

Brining solution: 1 cup table salt or 1½ cups kosher salt per gallon of hot water for 4 to 6 hours of brining time; ½ cup table salt or ¾ cup kosher per gallon of hot water for turkey to be brined overnight. Seasonings can be added and the brine should be refrigerator cold before the turkey is added.

In "The Thanksgiving Table" author Diane Morgan suggests placing a turkey-size plastic oven bag inside another one, then putting the bag into a roasting pan that's large enough to hold the turkey. (Remove giblets and refrigerate if making gravy.) Fold back the top of the bag to hold it open.

Put the turkey into the bag and hold it upright, turn up the collar of the bag and add enough brine to come halfway up the turkey. Close the first bag with a twist tie, then close the second. Set the turkey on its back and refrigerate. (Be sure the refrigerator is not overcrowded and maintains a temperature of 40 degrees or lower. Use a refrigerator thermometer to check temperature.) Turn turkey 3 to 4 times during brining time.

Stuffing:

Cooking the stuffing inside the turkey is a tradition that many don't want to give up. Some cooks say this method offers a flavor advantage, but the disadvantage is that it takes so long for dense stuffing to reach a safe temperature of 165 degrees in the center that the turkey meat can get overcooked and dry. (If you do stuff the bird, it's critical to use an accurate thermometer to check the temperature in the center of the stuffing.)

We recommend baking the stuffing separately in a covered casserole dish at 325 degrees for 30 minutes, then uncovering and baking for 15 minutes. To keep it moist, add about 1½ cups turkey or chicken broth and about ¼ to 1/3 cup drippings for 8 to 10 cups bread cubes.

Ways to cook a turkey

Roasting: Although many publications suggest turning the turkey up to 4 times during roasting, it can be daunting, not to mention dangerous, to handle a hot 20-pound turkey that often. Roasting the turkey breast-side down for half of the cooking time, then turning breast-side up will help make the meat more moist. Or avoid turning all together and inject with juices or basting liquid.

Although the oven can be preheated to 400 degrees to give an initial boost to browning, the temperature should be reduced to 325 degrees when the turkey is put into the oven.

The roasting chart below offers specific instructions on cooking turkey.

Cooking in a roasting bag: This is a good option for preparing a turkey a day in advance or when crisp skin isn't necessary. A spice rub or herb butter can still be put under the skin for flavor. Be sure to make several cuts in the cooking bag to prevent bursting.

If the turkey has been roasted a day in advance, cut the meat from the bone within two hours, cool and wrap well. To reheat, arrange sliced turkey on a microwave-safe plate or platter that will fit in the microwave. Moisten turkey with a little broth, cover with wax paper and microwave on 80 percent power for 30 second bursts. The bottom of the plate will be warm when all of the turkey has been heated through.

Convection oven: A convection oven can cook a turkey up to 30 minutes faster than a conventional oven. Cook the bird and stuffing separately to make sure both reach safe temperatures.

Equipment

Roasting rack: It elevates the turkey above the bottom of the roasting pan for air circulation and even cooking. Most roasting pans come with their own rack, or one can be purchased at a kitchen shop to fit the pan. The V-rack is a V-shaped metal roasting rack that is sold in two models: adjustable or fixed. An adjustable rack is adaptable to different-sized birds and pans while the fixed rack is a bit sturdier. A small turkey can be placed on a wire cooling rack as long as it fits inside the pan.

Thermometer: Although digital or instant-read thermometers are the most accurate, you can check your dial thermometer for accuracy before using by bringing a pan of water to the boil over high heat and inserting the thermometer. The temperature should register 212 degrees.

Fat separator: This looks like a measuring cup with a long spout placed toward the bottom of the cup. Pour cooking juices into the separator and let fat rise to top. The degreased juices on the bottom can then be poured out of the spout.

Another way to degrease stock or cooking juices is to let the liquid rest for about 10 minutes so the fat rises to the top. Spoon it off with a large metal spoon. Then lay clean paper towels directly on the surface, lift off and repeat several times.

Bulb baster: Because a turkey sits on a rack during roasting, it can be hard to reach cooking juices for basting. A baster will make it much easier to draw up the juices. To assemble the baster, moisten the edge of the rubber bulb and it will slip easily onto the metal or plastic barrel. Some basters come with injecting needles for internal basting, which are especially useful for natural turkeys that tend to be drier.

Basting brush: The newest brushes are made of long-lasting, dishwasher-safe silicone.

Because a silicone brush doesn't hold as much as natural bristles, you'll need to dip it more frequently in the basting liquid and work in all directions.

Baste a turkey the first hour of cooking. After the skin has begun to crisp and brown, basting will only soften the skin, and it won't add moisture or flavor to the turkey meat.

Sources: "The Thanksgiving Table" by Diane Morgan; cooksillustrated.com; Partnership for Food Safety Education; Val Hiller, food safety specialist

CeCe Sullivan: csullivan@seattletimes.com