Reader questions and tips about travel in China

Here's a selection of readers' tips and questions in response to Carol Pucci's "China on your own" travel dispatches. • • • I have enjoyed your article on your visit to the minority village and the one about traveling without a tour group in China. I toured with a group in China in 2000 and just returned from our own personal ized tour of Vietnam. With your interest in China, I thought you would enjoy reading my son's blog. He is a UW student studying Mandarin at the University of Sichuan in Chengdu, and he has been writing entries on his various adventures. They visited a minority village complete with the the slaughtering of a cow, etc. That would be found in the archives section of August or September, but you would also enjoy the entry on Christmas in Chengdu plus his photographs. You could read it at: www.spaces.msn.com/members/BlogWallStreet
— Joan Horn, Seattle

 

Can you recommend some travel agents in the Seattle/Redmond area who you can go through to obtain a visa to China? About how long does this process take? We are going to Yunnan province - starting in Hanoi, crossing the border at Hekou. In your travels on buses and in rural areas, public markets, homestays... how many chickens have you seen around? Do they ride the bus? I'll be in a lot of rural areas and taking buses - want to limit exposure to chickens due to avian flu - thanks! Sounds like you had a great adventure - I love China and want to get back as much as possible!
— Anne, Redmond

C.P.: I used Visa Services Northwest, 1511 3rd Ave., #801, 206-448-8400. The fee was $35 for a regular tourist visa plus the cost of the visa itself. The processing usually takes about two weeks. Chickens walk freely in and out of homes and around villages in rural China, and yes, people can and do take them on buses. The best you can do is avoid touching the birds yourself, wash your hands frequently and carry hand gel or antiseptic wipes. For more information on bird flu and precautions to take, see the World Health Organization's Web site at www.who.int

 

Carol,

We are going to Lijang. Would you like us to take any photos back to the family you met at the Moon Inn? Also, would you skip Shanghai to spend more time in Beijing and Yangshou to visit longer in the Yunnan province? In other words, if you were to take this trip again, would you add or subtract any days to your itinerary? We'll have three weeks.
— Melanie Moor, Seattle, Wash.

C.P.: I'd love to have you take photos back. Contact me at cpucci@seattletimes.com or call at 206-464-3701, and we'll see what we can work out.

If I had this trip to do over again, I'd likely do it much the same way, starting in Shanghai, but perhaps spending just two days there instead of three, and maybe shaving a day from Yangshuo and spending more time in the Yunnan province, perhaps squeezing in a trip to Dali, an overnight trek in valleys surrounded by the Jade Dragon mountain range or a trip to Zhongdian. Because I'm reporting for the The Seattle Times and seattletimes.com, I usually need more time in places than I would as a regular tourist. Lijiang, although crowded with Chinese tourists, is a wonderfully relaxing place, with lots of nice canalside cafes, parks and restaurants, and the Yunnan is really China's crown jewel. I wouldn't shortchange Beijing, however. There's a lot to see and do, and you'll want to have time to walk around, get lost and explore markets and hutongs.

 

Carol,

We very much enjoyed reading daily about your trip! Would you suggest skipping the "Peking Duck" dinner that goes along with the tour and instead strike out on our own for better food?
— Carol Saathoff, Post Falls, ID

C.P.: I'd suggest doing both. The Peking duck dinners are really a treat and not that expensive. We paid $25 for two with beer and it was our most expensive meal in China. It's a touristy experience and the quality varies, but it's worth doing once. Then, yes, by all means get out and explore, especially the street stalls selling cooked foods and the little dumpling shops. One of our favorite meals was at an outdoor "hot pot'' restaurant in Lijinag in the Yunnan province. Vegetables, greens and skewers of meat and seafood were displayed on tables. Customers pick out what they want and cook it in a pot of boiling, seasoned broth set in the middle of the table.

 

Thank you for your dispatches. I'm using the info for our trip to Hong Kong and various points in China.
— Pam and Bill, Bellingham, Wash.

 

Hi Carol,

We have thoroughly enjoyed traveling to China with you via your descriptive letters home to The Seattle Times. We traveled to China last fall for six weeks and visited so many of the same places... even stayed in some of the same hotels and guesthouses that you have visited. Then I returned to China with a group of women in April 2005. We explored the Chengdu area, seeing delightful panda bears, incredible mountain ranges in the Tibetan Autonomous Region west of Chengdu, and ate many delicious meals. We loved experiencing all of the vivid sights, sounds, smells, and tastes that China brings to the senses. And the people were so warm and friendly! Our son has lived and taught in China and speaks Mandarin so he made a wonderful guide for us when we were there. Thank you so much for your beautifully written descriptions. I am ready to return to China. What an amazing place! Thank you.
— Sherri and Bud Brown, Redmond, Wash.

 

I've discovered, much to my distress, that many countries will deny entry if you don't have at least six months left on your passport. Why has this rule been made and when did it become common practice? Just curious. Everyone at the airports knew the rule but no one could explain its purpose.
— Kate Gregory, Seattle, Wash.

C.P.: Many countries have this rule which became common as a security measure after 9-11. Each country's stipulation on this varies, so it's best to check with the consulate of the country in which you will be traveling. The easiest way to avoid hassles is to have your passport renewed in plenty of time before your trip.

 

Thank you for your blog and for answering all these questions - it's so helpful! My husband and I will be traveling to China and we're definitely going to have to stock up on memory cards while we're there! Have you seen other electronics, namebrand items like iPods for sale? Is it freezing in Beijing right now?
— Amber Wadey, Los Angeles, CA

C.P.: We didn't see great prices on iPods or cell phones, although both are widely available, as are other types of MP3 players. We did see good prices on memory cards and digital camera chips, but it's smart to put one in your camera to see if it works before you buy it. We bought a flash drive for $12, but took it to an Internet cafe and tried it out to make sure it worked before going back and buying several more!

I grew up in the Seattle area, so I check out The Seattle Times online regularly. I've really enjoyed reading your blogs. My husband and I have been planning a trip to East Asia, but your article has made us consider solely focusing that trip in China. Thanks, and enjoy the rest of your travel.
— Heidi Adams, Edinburgh, Scotland

C.P.: You won't regret focusing on China. There's much to see and do. I just spent the past four days in Beijing and am ready to go back for another week!

 

We're going on a guided tour of China next month, starting in Beijing, going to Xian, a 5-day Yangtze River cruise, to Guilin for the Li River cruise, and down to Hong Kong. I'm wondering about how cold it might end up being for this trip. Is Beijing very cold right now? Also, my husband has a pretty serious reaction to MSG. Do you think it will be a problem to ask for food without MSG?
— Amber, Encino, California

C.P.: Beijing is starting to get chilly, especially when the wind kicks up, so I would think it would be a bit cooler by next month. November is usually an excellent month weather-wise in Hong Kong, with temps in the 70s. Regarding MSG, I was told that it is often used, however, I would think that you could request that your meals be prepared without it. It's a fairly common concern among travelers.

 

I know China's one-child policy and cultural traditions have created a large number of children in orphanges, especially girls. Have you seen any orphanages during your trips to the countryside or in the big cities? If so, what were they like?
— Debbie, Bellevue

C.P.: I haven't seen any orphanges, but I have talked to a lot of people about the one-child policy. We've met many people with two children. Apparently they either came from the countryside (where two were allowed because the families needed the children to work) or people went ahead and had more children than the law allowed and paid the fine.

 

I have a problem with MSG. Is this used a lot for seasoning in China, as it is here in the States? What should I watch out for? Thanks.
— Karen Cook, Redmond

C.P.: I've seen menus mention that "no MSG is used" so apparently it's a common concern. The best idea would be to ask and make sure you're understood. Dishes are usually prepared fresh so it should be no problem for the cook to eliminate it if you ask. I've eaten at several "hot pot'' restaurants where you're served a pot of boiling broth and you choose various vegetables or meats to dip into it. All the ingredients were fresh with no MSG added.

 

You have been quoting prices in U.S. dollars. Have you been paying with U.S. dollars or Chinese yuan?
— Carol Saathoff Post Falls, Idaho

C.P.: I've been paying in yuan and converting the prices to dollars. The exchange rate is just over eight yuan to the dollar. So far, I've used ATMs to withdraw cash (yuan) or I've used credit cards. I brought along travelers' checks, but haven't had to use them.

 

We've been following your journey day by day and thoroughly enjoy your writing. We're two women, Seattle public school teachers, traveling independently to China. So many of our questions have been answered and your journey will match ours except for the starting point. We're still curious about your ease of ordering food off menus and basic conversation with Chinese people. How has it been for you when ordering food and how frequently do you have the opportunity to speak English with Chinese people? Would it help us to get menus in Seattle printed in both English and Chinese?
— Melanie Moor, Seattle

C.P.: The food in China is wonderful and ordering it has been easy, either because menus are in English or there are pictures that clearly show what the food is. Many times, the food is right there to see. I've enjoyed the "hot pot'' restaurants where you pick out whatever vegetables and meats you want and cook them yourself in a pot of boiling broth. I was with a Chinese woman the other day who ordered by opening the refrigerator door at a small, roadside restaurant and telling the cook what she wanted! Bottom line: the food is wonderful and no problems getting plenty of it.

In regard to language, many, many Chinese are trying to learn English and are anxious to practice. We've enjoyed long conversations with some and basic communication with others. Gestures work in most cases when words don't, and in the cases where we've really had to get something done - check an airline connection or find the bus stop - there's been at least one person around who speaks and understands enough English to help.

 

In Kunming and a few other other Chinese cities you must always collect your luggage and check back in for your other flight when going through these cities for a continuing flight, no mattter if it is the same airline or not.
— Dave Bruels, Seattle

C.P.: Actually, this is only true if you're flying different airlines, at least as far as Kunming is concerned. I flew China Eastern yesterday from Lijiang to Beijing via Kunming. We had to get off the plane in Kunming and wait in a waiting room for the plane to take off again, but we didn't have to check in again or claim our luggage. It was checked through.

 

My husband and I along with four other couples will be traveling to China with Viking River Cruises. We begin in Shanghai for three nights then cruise the Yangtze River for seven nights then have one night in Xian and three in Beijing.

Several of my questions have already been answered in your writings, but I was wondering about how we should dress. Our days are filled with a very busy schedule which includes lots of walking. We want to be comfortable, but also not look too out of place. Also, can you share with me if you had any shots before you departed. In reading my travel books, hepatitis A and tetanus were recommended.
— Linda Dike, Seattle

C.P.: China is very casual. I'd say you could dress the way you do in Seattle and be fine. The important thing is to be comfortable. That means good walking shoes. Many of the streets and sidewalks are rough or cobblestone. I'm wearing light pants everyday and, at this time of the year, you'll likely need some warm clothing such as a jacket, vest or sweater. Layers are the safest bet.

Check with your health care provider regarding shots. The two you mention are usually recommended along with some others, plus maleria protection if you're traveling into affected areas. I also bring asprin and any other over-the-counter meds I think I might need.

 

There's a good resource for independent travel in China at this link: treehouse.ofb.net/guide/?lang=en There are some forums for asking questions, and a huge directory of places (although the front page only lists 2 cities, it's actually hiding a whole wealth of information).You can also look up train schedules in English. If you just poke around for a bit, there's a lot to be found.
— Jack Herndon, Virginia

 

I hear from various sources about tearchers being wanted/needed in China. Do you see "help wanted" signs or any other indication that the need is real?
— Lisa Berger, Seattle

C.P.: English teachers are needed and sought after. I haven't seen any signs per se, but I've talked to people who have jobs teaching English. There's a big demand because so many Chinese people are trying to learn as much as they can as fast as they can.

 

We just moved to Shanghai six weeks ago from Seattle and it had been wonderful to read your take on the city we now call "home". I was here eight years ago and was hard-pressed to find coffee. Now, Starbucks and other local companies are everywhere. Thankfully we can feel right at home when we hop in for a latte. Thanks for the great read.
— Melissa, Shanghai

C.P.: Thank you! As for me, I'm hooked on ginger tea with the slivers of fresh ginger floating on top.

 

We appreciate your dispatches and enjoy reading about your travels. Now that you've been in China, would you say it's better to buy airline and train tickets for domestic travel within China once there or in the U.S.? My husband and I are planning a trip there.
— Kim, Seattle, WA

C.P.: I wondered about this, too, and based on most of the advice I received, decided to wait until I got here. It's been very easy. I've purchased three airline tickets so far, and have never had to wait more than 20 minutes to complete the whole process. Any hotel can arrange these for you and have the tickets delivered, or you can stop into a travel agency or airline office. The travel agencies also sell train and bus tickets.

 

I have been here for about two months, teaching English at a university here in (somewhat) rural China, in the Hunan province. I am a graduate of Washington State University (go cougs!) and I am from Seattle.

I like what you are writing, but I must say that your experiences are not taken you off of the beaten path as of yet. I hope that you get the chance to do so - I think it makes the traveling in this country more exciting. I hope you have the opportunity to ride the amazing train system here, travel through the vast countryside and see the non-tourist side of what China offers.
— Timothy Hogg, Chenzhou City, Hunan Province

C.P.: Thanks. Part of my strategy was to pick destinations that are interesting, but also accessable and do-able for the first-time independent traveler - places where people can get their China legs so to speak - without going on a group tour. I agree, the destinations are not off-the-beaten path, but so far I've been pleased with what I've found and the people whom I've met.

 

We are enjoying reading about your independent travels to China very much and are starting to regret that we are scheduled for a tour. We will be among all the tourists who only get two hours in Yangshuo. Doing it on your own sounds like much more fun! How has the weather been? Do we need to bring mosquito repellent?
— Carol Saathof, Post Falls, Idaho

C.P.: The weather in Yangshuo was hot a few days ago, hotter than normal from what I could gather, and yes, you'll need mosquito repellent, especially in the morning and evening. If you have just two hours, do try and get out and walk around on your own and avoid the little train cars that shuttle short-time visitors around.

 

We have been to Hong Kong but not to the mainland. We have some concerns about food given that we are vegetarians. Any suggestions? Many thanks.
— Madhu Madhavan, Alexandria , Virginia

C.P.: I don't think you'll have any probems at all. I prefer to stay away from meat and have found loads of vegetarian options on all the menus I've seen. The Chinese diet is actually very healthy, with lots of emphasis on tofu, lightly stir-fried vegetables and noodles.

 

Hi Carol,

I love reading your travel columns. My husband and I find we have common destinations with you and it is fun to read your views. Meanwhile, on the subject of squat toilets that you wrote about. ... After traveling to Asia twice this year, I'm growing accustomed to the squat, but haven't yet perfected the technique. Any advice?
— Kristi Rhoads Wyzik

 

Hi Carol, I'm enjoying your dispatches! When I think of China I always think of the great food - steamed buns for breakfast, hand-shaved noodle soup, "hot and numb" ribs .... My tip before you hit the countryside: If you find a good restaurant with a simple bilingual menu, comment to the restaurant host that the food is very good and you'd like to buy a menu. Generally they be honored and want to give it to you for free, and then you can insist on paying 15-20 RMB for the printing and paper. You can then use this menu when you eat in restaurants in the countryside. In many cases the chef will make an interesting interpretation of the dish you ordered, but it helps to avoid receiving tripe every time you simply order "pork" or "beef." (I've had enough tripe to last a lifetime.) Of course you'll want to try local specialties (and soup made with caterpillars that have grass growing out of their heads is tasty) but when dining unhosted it's always a good idea to play it safe and order at least one dish with which you're familiar ... Bon Appetit!
— Todd Hansen Seattle, Wash.

 

For the best small tour by motorcycle taxi see Esther - the best local guide there. Contact place is Captain Cafe in Yangshuo or telephone (0773) 8822123. My family and I ended up having lunch at her sister-in-law's home half way through our tour of the countryside and city. If you contact her before making other arrangements she can direct you to the best prices and places to arrange boat rides, taxis, etc. She bargains, and her pre tour price is the same as the post tour price. Have as grand a time as we did!
— Margaret Ellisor, Seattle, Wash.

 

Carol, Thank you for your very good introduction of Shanghai. Five years ago, when I first time visited Seattle, there was not so many people know Shanghai. Today, I am so glad that people will know this city through your article. Have a good trip in China.
— YingJing Xu Shanghai

 

Can you tell me what are the things you think need changing in China?
— Profkee, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

C.P.: I think the parts of China I have visited so far are trying very hard to catch up to Western standards of cleanliness, service, etc. Everyone, even very old people, is trying to learn at least a few words of English. I met a seven-year-old yesterday who was fluent! One aspect of tourism that definitely needs to change is the constant push to sell something. It's hard to sit down at an outdoor table and not be pestered by touts with postcards, books or trinkets for sale. It's the reason some people don't and it gets to be annoying and isn't good for business. How many sets of tiny wooden ducks does one person need?

 

Now that you are flying, please provide a detailed report on the 44 lbs for luggage and penalities for exceeding this limit. What does it cost to go above this limit. Is there business class on these flights and does that increase the luggage allowance? How much extra is business class?
— Leslie Klein Seattle, Wash.

C.P.: The penalities depend on the airline so you'd have to check. My own suitcase weighs 34 pounds, but that still exceeds the carry-on limit on flights within the country, so I've been checking it. Generally, business class allowances are higher on international routes, but again, the airlines have been changing those policies so it's best to call and ask directly, or check the web site.

 

Hi Carol.....I have really enjoyed your dialogue on your trip to China. A group of 8-10 ladies, some who all went to Franklin High School together, are leaving soon. Our guide has been doing business over there 2-3 times a year for many years. Through your diary, I feel like I know just enough to feel comfortable on my trek. I know I will be back to you with questions of my own. Have a great adventure and be safe.
Sincerely,
— Karen Cook Sammamish, Wash.

C.P.: Thank you. You'll do just fine. Do get out and explore a bit on your own without your guide by your side. You'll find the people friendly and helpful and anxious to meet Americans.

 

Hi Carol,

As an avid "outside" reader of The Seattle Times, your experiences of your travel in China brought back a lot of memories. Last summer, June 2004, I went back to mainland China for the first time.

It was an eye opener!! The modernization of Shanghai, Beijing, and other "small" cities was breath-taking. Lucky you to travel independently; we joined Ritz Tours for our travels. The tour group was a fun bunch as well as the excellent guides that accompanied us to the many cities we visited. We had visited most of the highlights of China ( Great Wall, Terracota Warriors in Xian, Gulin, etc.), but the highlight of our side trip was Huangshan Mountains, also known as Yellow Mountain. This is a must-see, and any person there will tell you to go if you have time.

Anyway, reading you travelog brought me smiles of my trip last year. Be safe, have fun, and don't forget to ride their taxis - hair-raising but fun!

Regards,
— Don Wong (a hopeful Seattle transplant soon), Cincinnati, Ohio

 

I am glad to read about your experiences in China. I am currently serving a Peace Corps assignment here and have found almost no positive media coverage. Your blogs are humorous, true and strangely familiar. I love how everyone loves Clinton here. Anyway, I am just happy to have read your blogs, and if you are ever in Wanzhou, my wife and I would be more than happy to feed you on your journey. Best of luck, Zaijian!
— Scott Milliman, Wanzhou, China

C.P.: Wanzhou is definitely going on my list for next time! And there will be a next time because I'm finding I can barely scratch the surface in the three weeks I have here.

 

Dear Carol, I love reading your dispatches! I am a senior in high school, but I really want to go to China sometime soon. My question is if you think it's safe for a young woman to travel alone, and if not, is it safe for two young women to travel alone in China? Thanks so much!
— Lorelei Langdon Seattle, Wash.

C.P.: Yes, absoulutely, I do. Many of the people who work in the hotels and restaurants are young women, and I find when you're a women traveling alone, the local women take you in and look after you. It sounds like you'll be with a friend, which is even better. You'll have no problems with safety, and as always be sure to watch out for your belongings, keep your money in a safe place, etc. Have a great time!

 

Carol,

Good luck on your China trip as an independent traveler.

We are backpacker types in our 70s who traveled throughout Yunnan Province on our own last fall for two months. We didn't know a word of Chinese when we arrived, but soon learned how to say "thank you", "delicious" and "hello" and had no problems. We never hired a guide.

Two tips for you: We found right away that if you need someone who speaks English, find a person who wears glasses. Glasses are quite expensive, so people who can afford them usually have more education and have learned English. It worked all the time. Most university students speak some English.

If possible, buy your bus or train tickets the day before. Seats are reserved, the buses and trains leave on time and there's no pushing or shoving as it was in the old days. For a real treat, take a sleeper bus to cover longer distances. It's one big slumber party - comfortable bunks, clean bedding. Try to get an outside window.

The northern part of Yunnan, in the mountains, will be cold. If we can help you in any way, let us know. We wish we were with you!

— Peter and Christine Koch

C.P.: I'll try your tip about the glasses and report back.

 

Carol,

Enjoy your dispatches. My wife and I have traveled all over Yunnan on self-directed, two-person tours for each of the last five of six years. To visit remote, unusual places or minority festivals, I heartily recommend Yunnan Overseas Travel Corp. of Kunming. Our English speaking contact is Hu Bin, e-mail: b150929@public.km.yn.cn tel: 0086 871 3108308, mobile: 0086 13808717222. Their offices are in the Camellia Hotel in Kunming at 96# East Dong Feng Road.
— Charles Crust, Kent, Wash.

 

Dear Carol,

My husband and I just returned from a three-week trip to China. It was the first time for my husband. I was born there, returned 20 years ago to find great changes. But the changes I saw last month was overwhelming to say the least. I hope you can find the time to do the Yangtze River cruise, it's amazing. The Li River cruise is breath taking as well! We have just one major observation: If China wants to be viewed as a major world player, it must put in a massive sewer system, and replace all the old-style squat toilets with modern ones. Plus unlimited toilet paper! It was a fabulous and life-changing trip for both of us. We want to go back again, but take a more independent trip. We will be following your exploits with great interest!
— Shyan Griffith, Seattle, Wash.

C.P.: Good point. Actually, I've been surprised how many modern toilets I've found so far in Shanghai. Only one squat toilet so far, in a restaurant where there was also no soap. I'm finding toilet paper, too! But this is Shanghai. I'll report what I find in other areas as I travel around.

 

Carol: Tell us more about the availability of ATMs as you get to more remote places.
— Lars Fisher, Kent, Wash.

 

While walking, what is the secret to crossing the street? An intersection in Shanghai is a scary place!
— Susie, Seattle, Wash.

C.P.: You are so right. Worst thing is the bikes, cars, motorbikes and push carts all coming at you at once from the left or right as you try to cross. I've found the best thing is not to hesitate once you make the decision to cross. It can turn into a cat-and-mouse game, especially with oncoming traffic and taxis.

 

What do you know about the Shanghai to Xian overnight train? Is it easy to book, and what are the accommodations like? From there we want to either go out to Lijang and Tiger Leaping Gorge or to Chendu and walk up the Emei Shan. If we can only do one, which would you recommend? Thanks.
— Glenn Leichman, Seattle

C.P.: I've heard it's one of the nicest and most scenic routes in China, but I'm afraid I don't know much more. Hopefully, a travel agent or a guidebook might help with the details. Both Lijiang and Chendu are very nice. I chose Lijiang, because, as with you, I have only time to do one, and I'm interested in finding out more about the ethic minority people in China, especially the Naxi who live in and around Lijiang.

 

Since you are flying between cities, make sure you confirm your flights 72 and 24 hours in advance. It is not uncommon to get bumped from your flight (they are often oversold) or for the flight to be canceled.
— Bridget Thurston, Kingston, Wash.

C.P.: Great tip. Thank you!

 

Last year, my husband and I took a small group tour of China. It was absolutely wonderful, but we were always asking ourselves what it would be like to do it on our own. I even learned enough Chinese to ask where the bathroom is, and I could understand the answer as long as they pointed. I am really looking forward to following your trip and learning from you. Be sure you take the boat ride down the Li River. The scenery is stunning beyond description. Have a great trip!
— Laura Nicol, Seattle, Wa

C.P.: Thanks! I agree, taking the time to learn just a little Chinese goes a long way - often not so much for pure information purposes as for the ability to be friendly...to ask how someone is or say "Thank you!'' It brings smiles. One of the tips I've received about the Li River is to take the cruise in reverse - from Yangshou towards Guilin - same scenery, but usually less crowded and costs less since the tourists who ride the boat from Gulin take the bus back, and the boatmen are looking for passengers. I hope to try this and will keep you posted.

 

Carol:

I, too, am independent traveler. You'll love Kunming. From there I did Dali, Lijiang and the Xishonbana area. Stone Gardens and Ethnic Village are a must. I stayed at Holiday Inns in most cities and they usually upgraded me to their elite floor. Outstanding. Be sure and see Crane Towers in Dali. View from summit Snow Mountain a great vista. I had no problems with language anywhere. Sign language always a backup. As you will find, EVERYONE is very helpful, especially to a 79-year-old, white-haired, single gentleman traveler. I guess I was as oddity as I have many photos with locals. Enjoy, as I did. I feel solo, for me, is the ideal way as I can set my own pace. Enjoy your articles.

Aloha,
— Jim Bonholzer, LaConner, Wash.

 

We will be in Beijing as part of an independent Round the World trip. I will be interested in any suggestions (of things to do) in the time we'll have. We have a hotel for the first two nights in Beijing and then ??? Are local travel agents and guides readily available?
— Ed Tennyson, Seattle

C.P.: Hi Ed, if you're a biker, why not take one of the half-day guided bike tours around a Hutong (Beijing's fast-disappearing back alley neighborhoods) with a group called Cycle China (www.cyclechina.com). They also offer a day tour to the Great Wall which I plan to take while I'm in Beijing. Prices are reasonable and include English-speaking guide, transportation and lunch.

 

Dear Carol,

I guess my main questions are:

1. Is the water safe to drink or is it bottled water all the way?

2. Are there ATM machines to get cash?

3. Are credit cards accepted readily everywhere?

4. Can one find laundromats easily? How expensive are hotel laundries? Or is it a matter of bringing lots of Woolite?
— Leslie Klein & Janice Kaplan-Klein

C.P.: Bottled water is always your safest bet. So far, at least in Shanghai, I've found plenty of ATM machines. Credit cards are accepted by most hotels, some restaurants, largest stores etc., but it's a good idea to carry a stash of travelers checks as as back-up. These can be exchanged for cash at banks. Most hotels have laundry service. Those that cater to business travelers and tour groups are likely to charge more; prices should be reasonable at smaller hotels and guesthouses.

 

Dear Carol,

I enjoyed your column tremendously. It is fairly well-researched and has good tips.

I am especially glad that you introduced www.chinabackpacker.com in your column. It is one of the online resources that I used most for valuable insights into the off-the-track gems such as Tibetan destinations, great walks and ancient as well as minority villages. On top of that, the Web site has some pretty amazing, first-hand photos - unlike some other sites that just "copy" the same articles and photos from elsewhere.

Keep it up.
— Regards, Herbert

 

Don't forget other countries' guidebooks. Germans love the Merian series. A cultural guide, with later editions adding hotels, etc., is from Frances Wood in the Blue Guides series and gives a lot of background to most sites. Do go to south Yunnan, Xinjiang and the Northeast (Harbin, Jilin, Changchung, Dalian) which are far away and expensive to get to. (Prices in the northeast will be the tourist prices of Beijing) Visit all the "treaty ports," even the inland ones such as Wuhan 3 cities, Tianjin, Shanghai, Ningbo where the Western remnants have a resonance with Westerners. Guidebooks in Hong Kong, if you are going that way. Cosmos, Golden, Dymocks, Swindons stores.
— William Lee, Vancouver. B.C.

 

Dear Carol,

Hi Carol -

I really enjoyed your article this morning! We are heading to China in about a month, and have been debating about whether to buy our inside-China air tickets now or later. I hadn't heard that they'd be cheaper to purchase there, but that makes sense. We're wondering how big the discount will be if we purchase the tickets there. I'm interested in the discount, but don't necessarily want to spend lots of time dealing with travel agents in China. (We have friends living there now, and they tell us to expect it to take half a day to purchase a ticket!) It sounds like you're waiting, so I'm assuming the discount will be pretty good, and hassle worth it. Can you shed some light on that?

Thanks,
— Stephanie, Ballard

C.P.: I bought airline tickets to Guilin this morning from a travel agent in Shanghai for $137 each compared to $181 quoted by Expedia when I checked in Seattle. That's a significant savings. The clerks spoke English and the whole transaction took about 15 minutes. It could be a different situation during a busy season or holiday period, but at least at this time, there were plenty of seats available.

 

Enjoyed your feature story on China in the Travel section of the October 9th issue of the Seattle Times. My husband and I traveled to China in 2004 and found it to be one place in the world that the rate of exchange is actually in our favor. With the US dollar worth 8.2 Yuan we were able to stay at the best hotels and not have to worry about breaking our budget. Our travels took us to Beijing, Xian and Shanghai. We found travel in China to be surprisingly safe, affordable and clean. If your readers are looking for travel guides that give more factual historical background information about the places they visit, I would like to recommend a trilogy of definitive travel guides by Eric N. Danielson, a graduate of the University of Washington, now living in China:

Volume I: Shanghai and the Yangzi Delta From Past to Present

Volume II: The Three Gorges and the Uper Yangzi

Volume III: Nanjing and the Lower Yangzi

Sections in the back of these books give readers hotel/restaurant information, Chinese language tips and transportation vocabulary. The publisher of these books, Times Media Ltd. of Singapore, is evidently not licensed to sell in the U.S. However, these books are available from Amazon.com and at Garden Books and outlets of Shanghai Book Traders in China. We were able to purchase Volume I at the bookstore in our hotel in China.

Looking forward to reading your continuing series of articles about traveling in China.
— Joan Hernandez, Tukwila, Washington

 

Dear Carol Pucci,

I was delighted to open the Travel section of the Sunday paper and find such great coverage on travel to China. Your trip sounds exciting - independent rather than a tour.

We have always traveled independently in other countries and loved the spontaneity it allows. My husband and I are planning a trip through the AAA and Viking River Tours, beginning in Beijing and ending up in Shanghai. Having never been to China nor on a tour, or a cruise, we decided to give both a try. The maximum number on their river boats is 309 passengers -- much better than two to three thousand.

It is my understanding that air travel within China restricts a carry-on to about 11 pounds and a checked bag to about 44 pounds. Though it is not our practice to over pack (hopefully). I wondered if you have been provided with any specifics about weight.

As a nurse educator, it will be interesting to learn about China and it's healthcare practices.

Have a great trip. I look forward to reading about it.

Xie xie

Sincerely,
— Tracy A. Lone

C.P.: I too will be interested in what you find out about China's health care practices! Your tour operator or airline should be able to confirm information about luggage weight limits, but the general rule of thumb on domestic flights (flights within China) is 44 pounds for checked bags and 22 for carry-ons. The allowance for international flights used to be 70 pounds, but many U.S.airlines have lowered their limits to 50, so check with your airline. The information should be on its Web site. Have a great trip!

 

Carol: When you go to LiJiang be sure to visit Dr. Ho of traditional medicine fame. He is retired near LiJiang and speaks excellent English. He is known world wide and a friend of mine.
— Dave Bruels, Seattle, Wash.