It's intoxicating at Georgia's, a Greek family restaurant in Greenwood, along about 8 p.m. on a Saturday. That's when the musicians own the floor, their fiddles and accordions emitting the evocative strains of Greek folk tunes, cajoling diners out of their seats and through the skinny aisles to dance in the place's sole wide spot in front of the entryway.

At Georgia's Greek Restaurant & Deli, only the peevish would point out that an entryway isn't the most practical place to dance. The place is altogether irresistible, whether it's stage to an undulating belly dancer, an impromptu troupe of folk hoofers or maybe you yourself, casting off inhibitions and learning a new step or two.

Or maybe you'll just eat, off a menu that unleashes at least as much abandon as the belly dancer. They do breakfast, lunch and dinner every day, eat-in or takeout — an ambitious enough agenda — with dinner alone featuring some two dozen appetizers (including terrific calamari) and a full array of salads, entree platters and sandwiches, at prices ranging from about $7 to $15.

Platters come heaped high; flavors resound with intensity; sandwiches are overstuffed and terrific; vegetarians are extremely well accommodated. And if a piece of meat is a mite overcooked, or a server can't exactly access your table through the dancers, you'll be in such a festive mood (read: gyrating so feverishly) you'll hardly notice.

Be sure to finish with something sweet; Georgia's features no fewer than nine desserts, including galaktobouriko (phyllo with custard and honey syrup), baklava (phyllo with walnuts and a honey-lemon syrup) and flogera (walnuts and cinnamon rolled with syrup-soaked phyllo), among others. All are sumptuous.

Check please

Appetizer platter: A sampler worth getting, with two dolmathakia (stuffed grape leaves), two tyropitakia (feta-stuffed phyllo triangles), two spanakopitakia (spinach-stuffed phyllo triangles) and two keftethes (meat slices, spiced to high heaven) — along with good pita bread and two dips of one's choosing. After much painful deliberation, we chose a fine hummus and skorthalia, potatoes pureed with oil and plenty of garlic, which here was much firmer and more garlicky than standard, and not at all unhappily so. A romp.

Kota lemonati chicken: A half chicken, golden from the roaster, flavored with garlic, oregano and lemon, and served with long chunks of lemony roast potatoes. Slightly overcooked; flavored winsomely.

Souvlaki: Your choice of marinated chicken, lamb or pork, grilled and skewered with peppers and onions alongside unexpectedly tame tzatziki and an enchanting orzo dish (topped with muscular Greek salsa) called manestra. A lot — and a good thing it was.

Rizogalo: Luscious homemade rice pudding crowned with whipped cream.

Itemized bill, meal for two

Appetizer platter $11.55

Kota lemonati chicken $14.00

Souvlaki $14.95

Rizogalo $2.75

Tax$3.80

Total $47.05

Kathryn Robinson: kathrynrobinson@speakeasy.net