Do you tofu?

Tofu is moving to the fashionable-food front. It is popping up in grocers' aisles as snazzy, healthy, ready-to-eat snacks; I found some with enclosed "dipping sauces" in flavors such as sesame ginger, tangy tomato and mango wasabi.

I've always been a tofu fan. One of my favorites, Island Spring steamed tofu, is from a local Vashon Island company that has been making tofu since 1976. The firm slices are grilled with soy and sesame and are great right out of the package. Maybe some of you remember the Spam Carving Contest that Ruby Montana hosted for several years in Pioneer Square. Well, tofu couldn't be outdone by canned meat; so, yes, there was a tofu-carving contest. Giant blocks of tofu were produced specially for this event, and then crafty sculptors sliced away. I was a judge at the event and, though I can't remember what the "winning" piece was, I do remember the chain-saw carver ... his creative process was quite messy!

Humor aside, tofu is good for you. Soybeans, which contain all the essential amino acids, offer complete protein from a plant source. And, like all vegetables, they contain no cholesterol. So tofu is a perfect dish for vegetarians and vegans because of its high protein content. Tofu is also a good source of omega-3 fatty acids as well as important minerals. It's also low in saturated fats.

Basically, tofu is made from soy milk that is curdled, and then the curds are pressed into a block. Tofu is not unlike fresh cheese. Depending on what agent is introduced to curdle the soy milk — for example, a calcium salt, nigari (from seaweed) or an acid such as lemon juice — and how much moisture is removed during manufacture, an "assortment" of textures is achieved in making bean curd. Firm, soft and silken are most frequently seen.

Firm tofu is drained and pressed to remove much of the liquid; soft tofu is drained of excess liquid and may be lightly pressed.

Silken tofu is coagulated in the container it's to be sold in; this undrained tofu is the most fragile, like a very tender custard. This is the silky, smooth tofu that is so sexy in miso soup and marinated little salads, such as my Chilled Tofu with Sweet Chili Sauce. It was inspired by the tasty dish that glides along the sushi conveyor belt at Blue C Sushi. Another good place to try this delicate tofu, called "bean flower" in Chinese, is the Szechuan Bean Flower restaurant on Aurora Avenue North, which serves fresh, housemade silken tofu that is so light, it almost floats away!

And while tofu's taste is very subtle — some would say bland — it is a fantastic flavor receptor. I like to think of tofu as an edible flavor-sponge as it sucks up any flavor you pair with it.

Those of you who go for adventurous Chinese cuisine may have had a tasty Hot Pot made with fish, tofu and pork belly. One of the dishes we made was Indian Spice-Crusted Tofu with Green Chutney Sauce. We toasted cumin, black mustard and coriander seeds in a little oil and distributed the crunchy mixture over slices of firm tofu. After baking, we drizzled the slices with a green chutney sauce popping with big flavors of mint, cilantro, mango and lime. Fantastic served with fragrant steamed basmati rice and sautéed spinach, this dish may even convert tofu-skeptics.

I love the Spicy Tofu and Spelt Salad featured in the deli at PCC stores, so I asked them to share the recipe. Big chunks of firm tofu are tossed with a slightly spicy dressing of rice wine vinegar, sesame, garlic and ginger and baked. Then the cubes are tossed with toothsome spelt, an ancient grain from the wheat family. Spelt reminds me of wheat berries on steroids. The addition of red cabbage, carrots and green onions makes for a colorful salad with wonderful textures.

And I had to include a recipe for Roasted Tofu with Peanut Sauce. The addition of the peanut sauce gives it an extra protein punch. Firm or extra-firm tofu is cut in sticks and tossed with some chili paste, canola oil and a little salt and roasted in a very hot oven until golden. It is served draped with a super-easy-to-make peanut sauce. I like this recipe with chilled sesame soba noodles or steamed rice and veggies.

So even if you have had a tofu aversion in the past, I hope you will try at least one of my tofu recipes. And if you're a tofu-lover like me, then enjoy a whole new variety of ways to cook up this versatile food.

Chef Kathy Casey is a food, beverage and restaurant concept consultant and food writer. She owns Kathy Casey Food Studios (www.kathycasey.com). Her "Dishing" column appears the first Wednesday of the month in the Seattle Times food section.