After nearly 20 years in the U District, tiny Silence-Heart-Nest relocated to the heart of Fremont. Today the former Longshoreman's Daughter restaurant has been refreshed in robin's-egg-blue and lives life as a veritable New Age Diner — complete with an open grill and counter seats.

Breakfast is served all day. Loved that eggs Benedict ($8.50) with soy bacon! Lunch includes everything from a BLT ($6.95); to a creamy macaroni and cheese ($7.95), made with white cheddar and smoked mozzarella; to a rib-sticking plateful of "Neatloaf" ($8.95), the house specialty composed of cereal grains, ricotta cheese, tofu and rice. When layered over mashed potatoes and treated to a rich mushroom sauce, that loaf gets a big thumbs-up for its light texture and infusion of herbs. It's also available with sandwich fixin's ($7.95).

Everything sampled here was hearty, wholesome, inexpensive — and delicious.

Silence-Heart-Nest hours: breakfast 7:30 a.m.-1 p.m. Mondays, Wednesdays-Fridays and till 4 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays; lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays, Wednesdays-Fridays, 1-4 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays (closed Tuesdays).