Italian food's favorite couple

For many, the first experience with the glorious combination of tangy, juicy tomatoes and creamy mozzarella may have been in a grade-school cafeteria, where slippery squares of lasagna were scooped from large metal pans. It didn't matter that the sauce came from a jar and the cheese was processed; the appeal was irresistible.

Now, with "Tomatoes & Mozzarella: 100 Ways to Enjoy This Tantalizing Twosome All Year Long," by Hallie Harron and Shelley Sikora (Harvard Common Press, $19.95), we're treated to an entire feast of inspiring dishes.

Breakfast and brunch ideas, soups, salads, sandwiches, cocktail food and main dishes all are given sophisticated, clever twists. The five recipes tested by The Seattle Times were concisely written, easy to execute and delicious.

The recipes span the seasons, so the authors depend on both fresh, sun-ripened tomatoes for summer and early fall dishes, and canned or fresh plum tomatoes — usually the most dependable tomato available during winter months — for heartier, cold-weather meat dishes.

The book includes a brief glossary of tomato varieties, advice for ripening and storing the fruit, and a guide to fresh and canned tomato equivalents. And anyone who's ever tried to break up canned tomatoes while wearing a clean, white shirt will appreciate the following bit of advice: "If you are using whole canned tomatoes and need them to be broken up, try using kitchen scissors right in the can to break them apart before adding them to a recipe." Inspired!

Mozzarella is the other partner in this culinary dance, and it also receives lavish praise and attention in the book. Imported fresh mozzarella di bufala — a soft, creamy white cheese packed in water — is the authors' choice for salads and other dishes where cheese plays a starring role. For casseroles or fillings, domestic mozzarella, which is firmer and a little saltier than fresh, is perfectly fine. It really depends on what's available and how much you're willing to spend, as imported mozzarella will always cost more than domestic.

This beautifully photographed book will inspire anyone who fell in love with their first bite of cafeteria lasagna and will expand the possibilities for creating our own memorable dishes.

CeCe Sullivan: csullivan@seattletimes.com